Kibera and First Love.

Kibera is the largest slum in Kenya but it is second only to the slum in South Africa- the largest slum in all of Africa. It is surrounded by wealthy communities. This weekend I was able to step inside Kibera and have a firsthand glimpse of life in a slum.  It is very hard to describe all the things that I saw and the emotions I felt. I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to see this part of Kenya, but it was very difficult.

Photo Cred: Tyler Minnesma

 Max and Tyler are shooting a short documentary at First Love Children’s Home and a man named Philip, who they interviewed, was our connection to Raila Primary and Secondary school inside Kibera. Philip and the head of the school took us on a 2 hour tour of Kibera. The first thing he pointed out to us was where the paved road ended and the “dirt” road began. I say “dirt” because the road was actually mud comprised of human waste and lined with rancid garbage- the main reason for spread of diseases like cholera, typhoid, and malaria. Philip said that among the 800,000-1,000,000 people who reside in Kibera that the phrase “this is where the government ends” is very popular at the end of the paved road. We learned that there are 5 dump trucks for the entire city of Nairobi. It isn't very often that they make it to Kibera. He said sometimes NGO’s and youth groups work to pick up the garbage, but even then, I don’t know where the vast amounts of trash goes because there are no dumpsters to put it in from what I can tell. Sanitation is a huge issue in Kibera. There is also no plumbing system for human waste. People use black baggies as toilets that we see scattered among the trash piles. If people want to use an actual toilet, they have few options and are charged at least 5 shillings to use it. A lot of the human waste flows through Kibera in a stream that runs through the slum. We were informed that back in the day, children played in that stream.

As we stood at the top of a hill that has an infamous train track running through it and people all along the sides selling items that were at one time garbage or stolen, we were told about petty crimes, mob justice, and the attitude towards cops. Although it was a bit scary to be walking throughout Kibera, we felt a little more at peace because 2 armed undercover cops followed us around the entire time we were on the tour. We were also told that if we were to be mugged that mob justice would take over and the culprit would be caught within a minute and be dead in less than 3 minutes. He shared a story of a man who was caught and lynched in front of him one time. It was horrifying yet slightly comforting to know that we were mostly safe…

While we walked the narrow muddy paths between the 6x8 homes that were made of mud siding and tin roofs, we were warned to avoid the hanging wires. In Kibera, it is very expensive to get anything. Water, sugar, power, anything. Taxes cause the cost of living in Kibera to be, what seemed to me, outrageous.We were told that 1000 KSH is about the equivalent to 100 KSH in Kibera. That means that 10 USD only gets you about 1 USD worth of anything. I do not exactly understand why. 

In Kibera, the women run the businesses because most men are drunkards. There is also a huge drug trafficking issue and a rise in glue sniffing/huffing especially among the youth. In the middle of Kibera there is a clinic. This clinic has done wonders for Kibera. It is where many go to get their medications for HIV/AIDS and where women go to deliver their babies. Before this clinic, many women and babies died during child birth. Now women can pay 20 KSH (about a quarter) to deliver their babies there and if they cannot afford it, they can deliver at the clinic for free. This has drastically helped with the infant mortality rate issues.

Dennis is a boy that we met in Kibera. He attends Raila Primary school. When I first saw him, he had Tyler and I’s attention as he did some ‘mzungu magic tricks’ with rocks that I recalled Tyler teaching kids in Korr. We looked at each other and I thought to myself, “How cool! How in the world does he know that magic trick and how does he know that Tyler taught it to someone before?” Then Tyler and Dennis exchanged a few words and Dennis reminded Tyler that he had taught him the trick at the Primary school a while back when Tyler was visiting to shoot a few interviews. Now Dennis and his friends in Kibera all know how to do the trick and remember Tyler vividly. What a neat moment to be a part of. I’m sure Tyler will remember those kids his whole life. They obviously remember him.

Next thing I knew, everyone in our group along with our two guides, Jeff, and the two cops were crowded into a woman’s home. She immediately got plastic chairs for us to share and drew up a sheet/curtain so that the rest could join her sitting on the bed-which took up half of her home. The main sitting area also included the kitchen and bathroom. It was cozy to say the least. The house was about the size of a closet in South Hall. The woman did not speak English so everything she said was interpreted for us. She had the radio playing on her outdated cellphone which was plugged into a charger being powered by an illegal live-wire hanging in her home. Electricity is another huge problem in Kibera. Many people illegally run live wires throughout the slum in order to power their homes. She had pictures of herself, family members, Raila Odinga, and President Obama taped onto her mud walls. 

I looked up at her tin roof and noticed many holes near the edges. It is rainy season. I cannot imagine the impending water damage that will be done to her home in the upcoming weeks. We were told earlier of a few homes already being washed away and how many started slanting due to the heavy rains. The woman told us a bit of her story. At one point 5 people lived in this cramped home. Her daughter had passed away and she could not afford to raise her granddaughter, Frieda, on her own. Frieda went to live at First Love children’s home where Tyler and Max are shooting part of their documentary. She shared with us how blessed Frieda is and how thankful that she is that her granddaughter has the chance for a future. Tears immediately filled my eyes at that phrase. A chance for a future. Frieda is 17. Frieda’s grandmother thanked us for coming and we shared smiles, handshakes, and ‘Asante Sana’s’ as we left her humble home.

Path in between houses

As we made the trek up the hill and over the tracks back to Raila School, Philip asked us, "From what we have seen today, what should Kenya do to help bring change? What should we do?" I could not give an answer. I still cannot. I don’t know what to do. What I do know is that I think something has to change. I will continue to struggle with those questions. Please tell me if you think you have it figured out. I sure don’t. I do think that it starts with Jesus’ command to love one another and to help the needy and poor. It starts with you and me doing our small part to help where we are given opportunities. That could look like many things. You might move to a different country, you might become a missionary, you might become a teacher or doctor or business man, you might make documentaries that expose injustices, you might give your money, you might give your time, you might pray. But whatever you do, do it with all your heart and give the glory to God.

Once we were back to the paved road, Phillip said, “The people in Kibera are forced to live like animals. They have animal like instincts because they need them to survive. Welcome back to civilization.” Woah. Those words are heavy and hit me like a ton of bricks. As we entered the school again, Philip encouraged us to go play with the kids. The secondary students were the only ones left because the primary kids do not stay at the school as long. Koly, Becca, and I went and played a fun game of "keep away" with the girls. There were two teams. I was on the team that put the girl's ties on their heads. I bet I looked like a goof, but they didn’t mind. As we were playing, I looked around and saw smiling, happy kids. This school is a place of hope and a safe haven for these kids. As I looked up from the safe haven, I could see people walking the railways and I couldn’t help but think about what I just saw on the other side of those tracks and knowing that those kids would soon exit the gate and return to that other world they know far too well. Once again, tears flooded my eyes. 

train tracks

I went and took a seat on some cement next to two girls named Genevieve and Faith. They were eating popsicles. I asked what flavor and they said, "just sweet." I introduced myself and Genevieve told me that she really loved my name. Jessica. Hmm, I think Genevieve is a much prettier name, but thank you. I asked what grade they were in and they are both in form 1- freshman. Both of their favorite subject is English. I asked them if they want to go to University and if so which one? They both said, "Kenyatta of course!" They told me that they have a new President named Uhuru. I already knew this but I took interest in what they were telling me. They told me that he is a drunkard, a tax collector, and that they do not like his policies. These girls are Luo for sure. I know this because Uhuru is Kikuyu and Kibera is home to a large amount of  Luo people. There is a huge rivalry between the Kikuyu and Luo tribes. Yes, tribalism is still a huge issue today. Google the 2007 post-election violence for more information. 

They asked if I loved Obama and his policies and other questions like if I like Kenya or America better and if I was going to stay forever? I said I want to be a teacher in Africa, maybe even Kenya, and Genevieve told me how proud she was of me. That really struck me. This 16 year old girl is proud of me. Wow. She also asked me if I lived on a farm and if I could dig. She said she was not healthy enough or strong enough to dig. I think she has asthma. I did not understand why she asked me this until later when I was researching the Luo tribe and I learned that women are the main farm hands in the Luo tribe and even educated Luo women still take pride in being able to dig. 

Like I said earlier, I am not sure how to process everything I saw and heard in Kibera, but it did completely humble me and make me so thankful for the life I live. I am so blessed. I cannot even comprehend how blessed I am. I take so much for granted. People in Kibera have to pay about 5 KSH for every 20L of water when I can just turn on the tap and drink clean water. I have a toilet to use. A flushing toilet. I don’t have to think about where my waste goes and I don’t have to worry about my next meal. I have a laptop, and a phone, and electricity at my disposal. Things that I never think twice about. Not until now at least.

Everything came full circle later that day when Aubrie and I went with Max and Tyler to drop them off at First Love- where they live some weeks as they shoot interviews and get to know the kids for their documentary and internship. When we got out of the car, immediately a girl, about 17, comes to greet us with hugs. Tyler tells us that this girl is Frieda. We tell her that we had just visited her grandma in Kibera earlier that day and a huge smile graced her face.

Freida started giving us a tour.  We were able to meet most of the 60 children who live there. These children are sponsored by people in the United States. Max introduced us to the married couple who runs this home and they took us to a little store where they sell homemade purses, quilts, dolls, pillows, and jewelry to raise support for the children who are not sponsored. The items sold are made by women from Kibera and they are taught skills in this shop to help provide income for their families. It is such a wonderful ministry. This place is absolutely gorgeous and the children are even more beautiful. They all give us plenty of hugs and handshakes. Frieda truly is given a "chance for a future" here. 

At 6:00 it was time for devotions. We joined them but it was getting too dark so we just sang two songs. I don’t remember the first, but the second was "How Great is Our God" by Chris Tomlin. It was so cool for me because my parents were worshiping at a Chris Tomlin concert that night as I was worshiping with children across the world to one of the same songs and singing to the same God. Such a feeling of joy filled my heart. After the songs, a girl stood up to pray. She thanked God for her parents and asked for their protection wherever they may be. She thanked God for her brother and sisters at First Love that God has blessed her with and for her big brother’s Tyler and Max. And again, the water works. These kids are so happy and it was so neat to see the place that Tyler and Max stay at and how much they love them there. Here are some pictures of First Love that Tyler has taken:

Romans 12:12 "Rejoice in hope, be patient in tribulation, be constant in prayer."